Big Bend National Park is Texas’s only national park. Located in far west Texas, the park is nestled in a curve of the Rio Grande along the Mexican border. Visions of West Texas usually conjure images of barren desert and tumbleweeds, but Big Bend is much more than just desert. Amongst the sweeping desert landscape, there are mountain ranges and patches of green oasis along the Rio Grande. In fact, an entire mountain range – the Chisos Mountains are located at the heart of the park. In a single day, visitors can hike a desert trail, swim in the Rio Grande, and enjoy a cool breeze while watching a sunset between mountain peaks. Actually – that was an exact description of our third day exploring Big Bend on our latest visit.
As a part of our big Texas Road Trip of 2020, Big Bend National Park was the highlight of our vacation. We also visited Sonora, Marfa, Alpine, and Fredericksburg on the trip and had a truly memorable experience.
I have fond memories of Big Bend from a childhood vacation when I was a young teenager. The area felt alien with its remoteness and the rugged scenery. The hikes and star gazing were incredible. When we decided to take this trip as own our family in 2020, I was so excited for Scott and the kids to see the park and couldn’t wait to see how our vacation would compare to my memories.
1995 <—————————————> 2020
Tips for Big Bend
Emergency Car Stash
Big Bend is so, so remote. There is no guarantee that you will have cell service or even see another car for long stretches of time in some of the areas. Just because I like to at least *feel* like I am in control of things, we kept an emergency stash of supplies in the car at all times. This included: large jugs of water, snacks, extra clothes (including pants/long sleeves), flashlights, extra phone batteries, and first aid.
Sun
Pretend you are going to the beach. This is the desert, so sun is reflecting off sand, rocks, everything. Wear hats, lather that sunscreen. Bring more water than you think you will need. Just don’t underestimate the strength of the Big Bend sun. And we went in November! Triple up on this advice if you are going in the summer months.
Dress in Layers
I mean, this probably speaks for itself. Just be prepared to want to remove a layer in the midday and be happy you can add a layer when the sun starts to set.
Packing
I’m not going to go into detail here – I’m sure you know the basics of packing for a trip. Here are just a few things that we really needed and some things that made the trip easier for us.
Backpacks for carrying our gear during hikes
Backpack carrier for the 3 year old (canvas, foldable to store in backpack when not in use)
Water bottles
Quick dry towel
Coolers & icepacks (we did a lot of picnic lunches)
Hats & sunscreen to protect from the desert sun
Bugspray
Binoculars (kept the kids occupied on some of the long drives)
Flashlights
Potty-Training on the Road
At the time of our road trip, A was freshly potty-trained. Certainly nowhere near the stage where she could reliably wait until the next gas station. Couple that with visiting a remote national park. Even finding a restroom for adults in the park could be troublesome. I will say that the major trailheads and the Chisos Basin area all had public restrooms, but less trafficked trails – like Grapevine Hills – did not. We tried to prepare for this by bringing A’s training potty (with the removable bowl) and keeping a kit in the car with toilet paper, wipes, and disposable bags. None of this is fun or pretty. I know. But it’s a phase of life when raising these littles. Several times on the trip, we had to take the blow to our dignity and handle a roadside potty break. I mean, what can you do? Better there than the car seat!
Know Your Limits
The thing with taking an outdoorsy trip with young kids is that you really have to know your kids and their strengths and weaknesses. J was 4 and A was 3. We knew the kids would love hiking… to a point. High temperatures or boring scenery would absolutely be a damper on their spirits and inevitably, their energy to keep those legs moving. There are sooo many great hikes in Big Bend, but we decided to make the Grapevine Hills Trail our longest hike, at 2.1 miles roundtrip. Even that we knew might be sporty because it was mostly a desert hike with little shade.
Once we had a rough idea of the activities that were doable with the kids, we juggled actives around on the days we were be there to find a plan that would work best. We tried to mix up our activities to spread out the hikes around stops at viewpoints and lunches in the middle. We also made our second day in the park and early day so that we could all relax in the afternoon and hopefully avoid burning the kids out on the park.
Big Bend Itinerary
Day 1
Arrive to Big Bend early afternoon
Fossil Discovery Exhibit
Lost Mine Trail to Juniper Canyon overlook
Check into AirBnB in Terlingua
Day 2
Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
Santa Elena Canyon hike
Tuff Canyon
Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff
Afternoon at the AirBnB
Day3
Grapevine Hills Trail hike to Balanced Rock
Boquillas Canyon overlook
Boquillas Canyon hike
Visit Chisos Basin
Watch sunset through the Window
Fossil Discovery Exhibit
Since we were coming into the park from the North side, it worked out perfectly to stop at the Fossil Discovery Exhibit first. It was right off of that main road heading into the park. It must be a universal law that all young kids love dinosaurs, right? I know our kids are obsessed. This exhibit is more of a pavilion with all kinds of fossil replicas on display. The kids had so much fun running around the dinos and looking at the pictures in the infographics. They were especially impressed with the life-sized pterodactyl suspended from the ceiling of the pavilion! Next to the exhibit, you can also take a short walk to a bluff that offers amazing views of the surrounding Chihuahuan desert and the mountains in the distance.
Lost Mine Trail
The Lost Mine Trail is one of the iconic Big Bend hikes. We even did this hike when I was here as a teenager! We were itching to get a hike under our belts on that first day, and since we would be driving near the Chisos Basin on our way to our Airbnb in Terlingua, we decided Lost Mine Trail would be perfect. Driving up into the Chisos was awesome. The scenery changed from flat desert to mountains covered in vegetation. And the temperature dropped as the elevation increased. The parking lot for this trail is small, but we were lucky to easily find a spot. Probably because it was mid afternoon, and most people were either done or already on the trail.
This trail is actually a pretty lengthy hike, but we planned to hike up to the Juniper Canyon overlook and turn around, making the hike just around 2 miles. With the kids good spirits and the cooler temps, we probably could have gone farther but we were also racing against the sunset. Our Airbnb was in an isolated location, so we wanted to get there for checkin before it was pitch dark outside. Once we were parked and situated, we started on the hike right away.
In a moment of insanity leading up to the trip, I ordered hiking poles for the kids. I… don’t know what I was thinking. They were unhelpful at best and weaponized at worst. We made it about 5 minutes before Scott and I took charge of the hiking poles. Mom fail. After this hike, they stayed hidden in the back of the car for the rest of the trip.
This hike was so enjoyable. The views as we ascended the trail were gorgeous, and the time of day with the sun moving down, cast a gorgeous light to the mountains. Other hikers on the trail were so friendly and most offered awesome encouragement to the kids (and some to us parents too haha). With the help of one of these friendly hikers, we spotted a road runner right off the trail. Our first wildlife sighting!
Finally as we curved around one of the bends in the trail, we had our first view of Juniper Canyon, and it was breathtaking! You could see for forever and the colors of the canyon against the desert behind it were gorgeous. We hung out here for awhile to rest and take copious pictures. And bandage up a skinned knee. By the time we were ready to go, we realized that we were running out of daylight and needed to book it. I put on our hiking backpack for A, J went on Scott’s shoulders, and we started our descent. With the kids out of the equation, we made great time – around 20 minutes to get back to the car. And off we were for Terlingua.
Terlingua, TX
Terlingua is located right outside Big Bend on to the west. It is also known as the Terlingua “Ghost Town”, though I don’t know much about the history of that name. Our Airbnb was on the outskirts of town, down a long gravel road, with almost no other houses in sight. In fact, this place was completely “off-grid”. Meaning fully sustained by solar panels and rainwater. The house was incredibly cute! It had that perfect west Texas charm and all the amenities we could need. We also liked how remote it was because the star gazing at night was INCREDIBLE. Definitely made up for having to extremely conserve water and electric during our stay.
Since we were in a new place, we decide to go out for dinner in the town. We went straight to the famous Starlight Theatre (yes, a restaurant, not a theater). Because of its popularity and small dining room, the wait was super long, but the helpful staff clued us in on a tip – order food to-go and eat at the seat-yourself outdoor area. So we did just that, and it was perfect! Terlingua is known for it’s chili, so of course, that’s what I ordered. Along with one of their signature margaritas. This meal was an absolute delight. Everyone was happy, the food was delicious, and we had the best time. Our visit to Big Bend was off to a great start!
Day 2
We woke up to a gorgeous sunrise this day! I imagine most mornings start out stunning at this location. The sun creeping up on a mountain ridge in the desert would always be a picturesque sight. We enjoyed our view as we ate breakfast and loaded the car for our next adventure in Big Bend. Today our plan was to explore the west/southwest side of the park, focusing on stops along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
The drive back into the park was easy, and before too long we were turning off onto the highway known as the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. After making this drive, it’s no surprise that this stretch of highway earned a special dedication. There were points of interest along the entire stretch, starting with the Sotol Vista Overlook. We stopped here first and got to see the entire desert stretch in front of us, all the way to the Rio Grande and the mesa in the distance where the Santa Elena Canyon is located.
Santa Elena Canyon
After our initial overlook stop, we drove to the end of the highway, all the way to the Santa Elena Canyon trailhead. Hiking into the canyon would be our main event for the day, so we wanted to start while we all had plenty of energy. We could see the canyon in the distance, growing larger as we approached. The canyon was a giant fissure in the wall of the plateau, dominating the view.
Parking was easy, and the hike to the mouth of the canyon was quick. This is where things got real. Decisions had to be made. The Rio Grande flows through the canyon… we knew this. However, we did not know that Terlingua Creek flowed into the river right here, and to continue on the trail, we would have to cross this creek. Since we were relatively early in the day, only a handful of other people were on the trail. A couple of them said there was a more shallow crossing further upstream but they were unclear on the details. Scott and I decided we would not be deterred. We took off our socks and shoes and waded the creek, each with a kid on our shoulders. Once back on dry land, we used the quick dry towel I keep in my backpack and slipped our shoes back on. Our clothes dried quickly as we continued the hike, and honestly, the cool water had been quite refreshing.
The next stretch of trail consists of several sets of stairs and switchbacks, all with steep drop offs. The climb was tiresome, but my anxiety of keeping the kids safe and away from the edges during the ascent distracted me from my tired legs. Finally we reached the top and the views were stunning! The desert stretched out behind us, and the smooth walls of the canyon in front of us reached up to the sky. The impressive scale of the canyon really hit us here.
From here, the trail continued along a flat, easy hike, winding through tall grass and even bamboo patches. Occasionally we would get close to the river’s edge, and the kids would play around throwing rocks into the river. We also had fun yelling “ECHO!” and hearing our voices bounce along the canyon walls. After a 0.8 mile hike, the trail abruptly dead-ends when the canyon wall meets the water, making it impossible to continue.
Our return trip was quicker. We put A in the backpack carrier, much to her enjoyment. She started laughing and yelling “Yee-haw!” and when we passed other hikers, she loved to proclaim, ‘I’m riding on my mama’s back!”. Since the trail was getting more crowded, she had lots of opportunities to express this. Haha… at least it made the other hikers chuckle. I’ll just try not to take being compared to a workhorse too personally.
By the time we finished our hike, it was lunch time, so we took advantage of the picnic tables at the trailhead. Not a bad view for lunch with the Santa Elena Canyon in the background. The rest of the day, we wanted to visit some of the other sights as we made our way back up the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This would include two other (much smaller) hikes and a couple stops for viewpoints. The Mule Ears Viewpoint was probably the most unique – the rock formations really did look like mule ears!
Tuff Canyon and Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff
After Santa Elena Canyon, our next stop was Tuff Canyon. This was a small gorge, right off the highway. There are a couple viewing platforms and a trail that guides you around into the canyon. We peered down into the canyon from the viewing platforms before making our way down the trail. There was no flowing water in this canyon, just sandy soil and patches of vegetation. The sand made it difficult to hike, so we went a little way into the canyon and then turned around. It was a fun little stop and easy to access, great for young kids as there was no difficult climb. Just be careful of the canyon edges when you are at the top! (Advice based on a heart-stopping moment when J took off running after Scott, near the edge.)
Our last hike of the day was the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff. I didn’t really know much about this hike going into it. Just that it was a short hike that led to a dry waterfall. I think that water only flows here after a heavy rainfall. To get to the trailhead, we had to take a short drive off the main highway, and parking was easy once we arrived. The trail is all flat and open – meaning lots of sun here. After so much activity already this day, we were all dragging a little and the relentless sun started to drain our energy. Eventually the trail became very sandy as we were following a dry creek bed. Scott and the kids decided to stop while I hiked on to the pouroff, snapped a couple pictures, and headed back. The total hike was about 1 mile roundtrip. Since our energy was starting to wane, good thing this was our last planned stop for the day! The views along the drive and the visit to the iconic Santa Elena Canyon made our second day in the park a total success!
After our Big Bend adventures, we spent the rest of the day hanging out at our Airbnb. The kids played in the rocks and dirt outside, we enjoyed a magnificent sunset, and for dinner we roasted hotdogs and marshmallows on a campfire. Downtime like this is so wonderful when mixed into an otherwise busy trip.
Day 3
Grapevine Hills Trail (Balanced Rock)
Our last day in Big Bend started off with the longest hike of our trip. The Grapevine Hills Trail – which contains the famous Balanced Rock – was an out-and-back 2.1 mile hike. Despite getting to the trailhead first thing in the morning, the parking lot was already almost full. When planning, this trail seemed to be off the beaten path, but I guess it is much more popular than I expected. After seeing the views at the end, I can understand why.
This trail is a desert hike with almost no shade, so we prepared with lots of water and sunscreen and set out on our way. The first portion of the trail is flat and sandy, surrounded by interesting rock formations. We let the kids go at their own pace and have fun running up the trail. The last 0.25 miles of the trail is where things get interesting. The trail becomes steep and requires you to climb up a rocky cliff. It’s also not marked very well, so pay attention to where you are going. At this point we were just lifting the kids up and passing them off to each other to keep going. They were too little to really climb the rocks on their own. My anxiety was running pretty high, but Scott and the kids handled it like champs.
Now at the top, we made a wrong turn and ended up a little lost for a bit. The trail was supposed to continue to the right, around a large boulder, but we made a left. The scenery was pretty, but we knew this wasn’t where we wanted to go. Eventually we figured out the right path (thanks to some other helpful hikers), and made it to Balanced Rock. The view from the top of this cliff was stunning. The rock formations everywhere were unique and dramatic, and there was a panoramic view of the surrounding desert and the mountains in the distance.
Balanced Rock is the showstopper here. We had so much fun taking pictures and enjoying the sight. Before making the return trek, we found a little cave, and the kids enjoyed snacks in the shade. Some more adventurous hikers were climbing up other rocks in the area for different viewpoints. I’m sure some of those pictures turned out awesome! Our return trip was, as usual, much easier and A enjoyed another ride in the backpack carrier.
Boquillas Canyon
The next hike on our agenda was the Boquillas Canyon trail, in the east section of the park. On our way to the trailhead, we made a quick stop at the Boquillas Canyon Overlook. From here, we could see the entrance to the canyon, and Boquillas, Mexico across the river. We were also able to purchase little trinkets left out for sale from Mexican craftsmen. These enterprising artists cross the river and set up displays of their work, leaving price information and a container for buyers to leave their money. We picked out a cute yucca plant and roadrunner crafted out of wire and some impressive beadwork.
In another reality, we would have planned much more time in this area. Under normal times (without Covid-related closures), we would have taken a boat across the river here for lunch in Boquillas. Passports required but still an easy border crossing. We would have also planned a visit to the Boquillas Hot Springs along the Rio Grande.
After enjoying this vista, we drove to the Boquillas Canyon trailhead, and ate a quick lunch in the car in the parking lot. The trail didn’t waste any time, starting with an immediate ascent up several zigzagging staircases. The view at the top was worth it though, revealing a dramatic bend in the Rio Grande below. The trail took up back down some more stairs and then a flat, sandy path until we reached the edge of the Rio Grande. The trail then continues on to the mouth of the canyon, for a roundtrip total of 1.5 miles. However, we stopped here.
We navigated across the rocky shore right to the river bank and decided to cool off in the water. The kids had already been complaining about being tired of hiking, and we thought playing here and skipping the rest of the hike would be a welcome change of pace. We took off our shoes and waded in about knee deep. The current in the river was flowing quickly, so we couldn’t let the kids go on their own, but the water was nice and refreshing for all of us. After some time enjoying the scenery, we trekked back to the car. Most of the time with us carrying both kids. They were definitely reaching their limits.
Chisos Basin
To get back to Terlingua, we would have to cross from Boquillas Canyon on the east side of the park, all the way back to the west side. Since we would be driving right past the turn off for the Chisos Basin, we planned to head there for more exploration until catching the sunset through the Window. The Window is a narrow opening in the rim of the west side of the basin. We didn’t make it far on the road before realizing that both kids were fast asleep. They had certainly earned those naps!
By the time we made it to the main parking lot in the Chisos Basin, we knew that the kids needed their nap much more than we needed to complete the Chisos Basin Loop Trail. (That was our original plan as we waited for sunset.) Rather than wake up overly tired and grumpy kids for yet another hike, we let them sleep in their car seats. I walked over to the Basin convenience store and bought a couple beers for Scott and I to sip while we waited for the kids to wake up. The temps at the basin elevation were pleasant, and after the kids woke, we all enjoyed a snack at one of the outdoor picnic tables scattered around the area.
Eventually, the sun started to sink, and we made our way to the Window View Trail. This was a very easy, paved, 0.25 mile walk toward some amazing views of the Window. This was where was planned to catch the sunset. As the sun sank lower and lower, the colors in the sky become more vivid. Set against the outline of the peaks of the basin rim, there is no better place in the park for sunset viewing and no better way to end our Big Bend visit!
Posts from this trip:
Roadtripping through Texas with Kids! Part 1
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